What lighting to grow carpet plant in nano aquarium?

i have just bought the Fluval Flora. its a 30l aquarium, so only small and im think about growing a carpet plant. i have a mini co2 kit already to go. the lighting i already have is a 11w compact fluorescent, now it should be alright with most plants but taking into account the class top and the water i don’t think it might punch enough light through for the carpet??

can anyone help me with an idea or a light i could add to it? im looking really at LED??

so far i have found this, http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aquarium-Lighting-All-Pond-Solutions/dp/B0040Z2EDC/ref=pd_sim_kh_1 THANKS AGAIN 🙂

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3 Responses to “What lighting to grow carpet plant in nano aquarium?”

  1. Jami says:

    LEDs are quite variable in their performance at emitting in various areas of the spectrum and, broadly speaking, unless the manufacturer claims they are good for plants, they won’t be because LEDs that emit ‘broadly’ are more expensive compared with the general lighting types we are starting to see in homes and offices. The manufacturer won’t generally add to the cost of their product and leave that feature undocumented. Still, you can consult them for information and the key things you should be looking at are lumens and spectral emission. Watts is actually pretty irrelevant except for finding out how much they cost to run.

    Having got your lumen output, a simple calculation of brightness is to divide the lumen output by the floor area of the aquarium. A value of 10Lm/sq. In is where you start to see good results for ‘low light’ plants. This can go up to 30-35Lm/sq. In, at which point sea corals will be quite happy. Broadly-speaking, 15Lm/sq. In is where CO2 injection starts to make sense. If you want to be anal about it, you can substract about 10% from the lumen output for each barrier the light has to go through – with glass + water surface, you would be looking at a 20% loss.

  2. Hannah says:

    LEDs like that really aren’t good for growing plants. You’re better off with flourescents. I like Dwarf Hairgrass personally, which is high light. Generally 3-4 watts plus.
    Edit- Meant to type 3-4 watts per gallon.

  3. TheMrCJist says:

    The CO2 injection will be pretty pointless with that 11W fluorescent lamp – you would be looking at a setup where 11W lamps cover most of the hood area before the CO2 will make any difference.

    LEDs are quite variable in their performance at emitting in various areas of the spectrum and, broadly speaking, unless the manufacturer claims they are good for plants, they won’t be because LEDs that emit ‘broadly’ are more expensive compared with the general lighting types we are starting to see in homes and offices. The manufacturer won’t generally add to the cost of their product and leave that feature undocumented. Still, you can consult them for information and the key things you should be looking at are lumens and spectral emission. Watts is actually pretty irrelevant except for finding out how much they cost to run.

    Having got your lumen output, a simple calculation of brightness is to divide the lumen output by the floor area of the aquarium. A value of 10Lm/sq. In is where you start to see good results for ‘low light’ plants. This can go up to 30-35Lm/sq. In, at which point sea corals will be quite happy. Broadly-speaking, 15Lm/sq. In is where CO2 injection starts to make sense. If you want to be anal about it, you can substract about 10% from the lumen output for each barrier the light has to go through – with glass + water surface, you would be looking at a 20% loss.

    The spectra of the light source is also important because it must emit in the areas of the spectrum where chloropyl absorbs – this is what makes the plants grow. Analysing the spectrum of a light source is a serious scientific area, but what you should be looking for a reasonably broad spread. Its always a trade-off – a decent spectra for plant growth will give purple-ish light that renders colours very poorly and looks just plain wrong. However, a light source that makes the aquarium look good, showing all the colours vibrantly, is only moderately good for growing plants. Since the aquarium is for looking at, it is generally better to go with lights that are not as good at growing plants, but use more of them.

    If you find all the above a bit daunting, simply steer clear of LEDS unless you want to pay $60+ for a module for a 2ft tank that will work well because the manufacturer says so and go with tubes intended for the purpose – tropical daylight, coral light, reef light – these sorts of tube brand names are fine for your purpose and cheaper than LEDs.

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